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The Brasserie

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Just a table or two from The Grange (yet a few steps closer to the realm of affordable), The Brasserie needs a lot of personality to step out of Cheong Liew's shadow. Fortunately, strong branding combined with executive chef Simon Bryant's genuine commitment to South Australian produce makes this restaurant easy to like. Bryant sniffs out talented regional suppliers and builds his menu around their offerings. For instance, the confit duck leg and pan-roasted breast is fashioned from duck sourced from Matthew Waechter who rears free-range ducks in the Barossa Valley. Local produce such as cumquat jam and olive oil is for sale on shelves near the special's board, making the restaurant seem positively boutique.

The service is affable and the waitstaff are menu proficient, offering dish explanations and intelligent wine matches. The menu contains far-flung dishes such as the twice-baked souffle with pear and vincotto, and dishes with local character like the kangaroo saddle - rubbed with lemon myrtle and pepper berry and served with a desert lime and bush banana salad. The Brasserie does well to attract both in-house guests of the Hilton Adelaide and foodies for the larger South Australian population, and is worth a visit to taste all that regional produce can achieve.

Jennifer Miller, May 2007