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Raffles Room, Steventon Lodge

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

I was keen to peek into this regal character; beckoning with her old world charm. Inside, homage is paid to the iconic Raffles Hotel. Walls are tastefully adorned with sketches of Singaporean nostalgia. Crisp, white linen abounds and antique cabinets display ornate porcelain. Steventon Lodge houses the formal Raffles Room, however, directly adjoining it is an enclosed patio cafe. I walked from carpet to tile and realised this poor beauty suffers from a split personality; her refined demeanour meeting expectations until she turns from regal Asian restaurant to casual Oz cafe in the space of a footstep.

The restaurant menu is a mix of Chinese, Thai and Malaysian dishes. Chef Yank caters for the predictable with entrees such as prawn toast, Vietnamese cold rolls and hot and sour soup. Quail is an appreciated inclusion, grilled with piquant Thai herbs and spices. For mains, the Eight Treasure Duck is certainly the house treasure, although the crispy skin roast duck is popular too. Seafood is well represented with salt and pepper squid, garlic prawns, and Szechuan fish fillets. Thai-style red curry also pleases. Shan Dong chicken makes an appearance, however I was disappointed not to see more eclectic treats on show. I am hoping that if subtle enquiries are made, some of those more special dishes that generally elude printed menus may find their way to the table. In the meantime, the exquisite ambience of Raffles Room more than satisfies.

Roz Taylor, November 2007